Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Did you know the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited national park in the country? It hosts more than eleven-million annual visitors, nearly twice the number of the second most popular park, the Grand Canyon. We recently became two of its recent visitors. 

Straddling the border between North Carolina and Tennessee, the Great Smoky Mountain National Park boasts gorgeous forests, misty rolling mountains, meadows full of wildflowers and year-round waterfalls. The park is known for its robust plant and animal life, rich Southern Appalachian history, and the magical, smoky haze found on the mountains. 

With nearly 80 historic buildings, 800 miles of hiking trails and numerous scenic drives, the park offered a myriad of opportunities for us to explore during our visit! 

 

 

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park was established in 1934. It is one of the few national parks where no entrance fees are charged.

More than 100 species of trees are found in the park. The lower region forests are dominated by leafy, deciduous trees and in the higher altitudes, coniferous trees, like the Fraser fir, are found. Also 1,400 flowering plant species and more th…

More than 100 species of trees are found in the park. The lower region forests are dominated by leafy, deciduous trees and in the higher altitudes, coniferous trees, like the Fraser fir, are found. Also 1,400 flowering plant species and more than 4,000 species of non-flowering plants grow within the park.

More than 2,100 miles of streams and rivers flow through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I always enjoy the sounds of a rushing river or flowing stream. 

More than 2,100 miles of streams and rivers flow through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I always enjoy the sounds of a rushing river or flowing stream. 

Mingus Mill, built in 1886, is a historic grist mill that uses a water-powered turbine instead of a water wheel to power all of the machinery in the building. We bought some flour on our stop to the mill. 

Mingus Mill, built in 1886, is a historic grist mill that uses a water-powered turbine instead of a water wheel to power all of the machinery in the building. We bought some flour on our stop to the mill. 

Mingus Mill, built in 1886, is a historic grist mill that uses a water-powered turbine instead of a water wheel to power all of the machinery in the building. We bought some flour on our stop to the mill. 

Cades Cove is a broad valley in the northwest region of the park. It is a popular destination and offers some of the best opportunities for wildlife viewing. Protected in the park are some 65 species of mammals, over 200 varieties of birds…

Cades Cove is a broad valley in the northwest region of the park. It is a popular destination and offers some of the best opportunities for wildlife viewing. Protected in the park are some 65 species of mammals, over 200 varieties of birds, 67 native fish species, and more than 80 types of reptiles and amphibians. We, unfortunately, didn't see any interesting animals during our stop there. 

Cades Cove is a broad valley in the northwest region of the park. It is a popular destination and offers some of the best opportunities for wildlife viewing. 

We picnicked in the Chimney Tops picnic area of the park. The next day, while passing by the entrance, we noticed a bunch of vehicles. I then saw that the area was closed. A number of people were out of their cars, with their phones in hand. Fr…

We picnicked in the Chimney Tops picnic area of the park. The next day, while passing by the entrance, we noticed a bunch of vehicles. I then saw that the area was closed. A number of people were out of their cars, with their phones in hand. From the corner of my eye, I saw a black object. I can only assume this was a black bear that had ventured to the spot we were at 24 hours earlier. Biologists estimate approximately 1,500 American black bears live in the park, a density of approximately two bears per square mile.

The view is nice even if Ryan's face doesn't think so (he decided to put sunflower seeds in his mouth right before I took this). 

The view is nice even if Ryan's face doesn't think so (he decided to put sunflower seeds in his mouth right before I took this). 

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has been called the "Salamander Capital of the World." Climatic and geologic factors have combined to spur the development of 30 salamander species. 

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has been called the "Salamander Capital of the World." Climatic and geologic factors have combined to spur the development of 30 salamander species. 

The Mountain Farm Museum is a collection of historic log buildings preserved within the park. Buildings include a house, barn (seen above), applehouse, smokehouse and springhouse. While in the park, we saw license plates from across the U.S. We hadn…

The Mountain Farm Museum is a collection of historic log buildings preserved within the park. Buildings include a house, barn (seen above), applehouse, smokehouse and springhouse. While in the park, we saw license plates from across the U.S. We hadn't seen any Iowa plates until we stopped at the farm museum, where we saw three. Guess you can't keep Iowans away from the farm for too long! 

The Cherokee tribe considered the mountains to be a sacred place and referred to the area as "shaconage" — the land of blue smoke. The cause of this? At high elevations the humid air turns into fog. Furthermore, when the fog lifts, natural ozon…

The Cherokee tribe considered the mountains to be a sacred place and referred to the area as "shaconage" — the land of blue smoke. The cause of this? At high elevations the humid air turns into fog. Furthermore, when the fog lifts, natural ozone production from the area’s many waterfalls plus oxygen production resulting from photosynthesis generates a blue haze that settles over the mountains, giving them their distinctive look.

Mingo Falls is on the Cherokee Indian Reservation, near where we stayed. It was an easy walk to the 120-foot waterfall.

Mingo Falls is on the Cherokee Indian Reservation, near where we stayed. It was an easy walk to the 120-foot waterfall.

The Appalachian Trail (AT) travels 72 miles through the park, along the Tennessee-North Carolina border. The entire Appalachian Trail is 2,200 miles, extending from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine. By the way, I promise …

The Appalachian Trail (AT) travels 72 miles through the park, along the Tennessee-North Carolina border. The entire Appalachian Trail is 2,200 miles, extending from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine. By the way, I promise I have shorts on under my jacket!

Our hikes

  1. Chimney Tops: Over the course of two miles, this trail gains 1,400 feet in elevation, providing spectacular views and burning leg muscles. The trail was recently reconstructed from a November 2016 wildfire. The Chimney Tops are a pair of rocky outcrops. One of the few instances of a bare rock summit in the Smokies.

  2. Alum Cave: Alum Cave is a popular trail to Mount LeConte. We only did the first section of the trail, ending at the Alum Cave (5 miles roundtrip). Alum Cave is not actually a cave, but rather a massive concave overhang that towers 75-80 feet high. Along the way to the cave, the hike passes through Arch Rock, a very large concentration of black slate that formed a natural, arch-like shape over time.

  3. Abram Falls: This hike is located in Cades Cove and is approximately five miles roundtrip. It ends at the 20-foot waterfall, Abram Falls. The large volume of water rushing over Abrams Falls offsets its relative lack of height. Very powerful!

  4. Clingman's Dome: This isn't exactly a hike but is a half-mile uphill climb to the 50-foot observation deck at the highest point in the park at 6,643 feet. On a clear day, it offers spectacular 360° views of the Smokies. It was very foggy the day we traveled there so no photos to share!

A list of other popular hikes: Charlie's Bunion (part of Appalachian Trail), Andrews Bald, Mount LeConte, Ramsey Cascades, Rainbow Falls, Mount Cammerer, Lauren Falls, Rich Mountain Loop, Porters Creek, Rocky Top, Spruce Flat Falls, Mount Sterling, Baskins Creek Falls, Grotto Falls, Kephart Prong, and Gregory Bald. 

Here's us at the summit of the Chimney Tops hike. It was an intense one but worth it in the end. It was a satisfying feat and, of course, the hike back down was much easier!

Here's us at the summit of the Chimney Tops hike. It was an intense one but worth it in the end. It was a satisfying feat and, of course, the hike back down was much easier!

Here are the Chimney Tops, for which the hike is named. As you can see, there are many dead trees from the fire two years earlier. Prior to the fire and trail reconstruction, the hike used to end at the Chimney Tops. 

Here are the Chimney Tops, for which the hike is named. As you can see, there are many dead trees from the fire two years earlier. Prior to the fire and trail reconstruction, the hike used to end at the Chimney Tops. 

The start to all those stairs! There were 360 rock steps (shown) and nearly 300 log steps. They just kept coming! 

The start to all those stairs! There were 360 rock steps (shown) and nearly 300 log steps. They just kept coming! 

Here's the Arch Rock we saw on our way to Alum Cave (this photo is on our way back). 

Here's the Arch Rock we saw on our way to Alum Cave (this photo is on our way back). 

Just beyond Arch Rock, we took time to enjoy Inspiration Point. At an elevation of 4,700 feet, it rewards hikers with stunning panoramic mountain views. 

Just beyond Arch Rock, we took time to enjoy Inspiration Point. At an elevation of 4,700 feet, it rewards hikers with stunning panoramic mountain views. 

Here's Alum Cave! You can't really tell in the photo but there was water cascading off the ledges above. Quite pretty! 

Here's Alum Cave! You can't really tell in the photo but there was water cascading off the ledges above. Quite pretty! 

A great place to stop and take a breather before heading back! 

A great place to stop and take a breather before heading back! 

Alum Cave Trail is the most popular trail to Mount LeConte. The hike is 5 miles to the top (10 roundtrip). The cave was enough for us! 

Alum Cave Trail is the most popular trail to Mount LeConte. The hike is 5 miles to the top (10 roundtrip). The cave was enough for us! 

Making friends at the top! One of my favorite things about hiking are the friendly people we meet on the trail. It is more common than uncommon to hear  "hello" ... "how are you today?" ... "good morning! " I wish people were this fri…

Making friends at the top! One of my favorite things about hiking are the friendly people we meet on the trail. It is more common than uncommon to hear  "hello" ... "how are you today?" ... "good morning! " I wish people were this friendly in everyday life! 

Ready to start our hike to Abram Falls! A roaring river behind us. We saw quite a few rivers and lovely streams on our hikes and drives within the park. 

Ready to start our hike to Abram Falls! A roaring river behind us. We saw quite a few rivers and lovely streams on our hikes and drives within the park. 

Here we are at Abram Falls! This hike experience had a first for us ... hiking through a storm! Rain, lightning and thunder! Annual rainfall in the park varies from 55 inches in the valley to more than 85 inches on the hills, making it one of t…

Here we are at Abram Falls! This hike experience had a first for us ... hiking through a storm! Rain, lightning and thunder! Annual rainfall in the park varies from 55 inches in the valley to more than 85 inches on the hills, making it one of the rainiest places in the nation. No wonder the area reminded me of Kauai some!

Ryan found another trusty walking stick on this hike.

Ryan found another trusty walking stick on this hike.

Our stay at Grandpa's Cabin

We stayed at Grandpa's cabin, located outside of Bryson City, North Carolina. The cabin is owned by a family (Grandpa was a certified public accountant and was given the land by a client as payment for an accounting job) and rented through Carolina Mountain Vacations. Although Bryson City is farther from the park, we chose this cabin for its spectacular view and remoteness. It did not disappoint! Bryson City was a quaint, non-touristy town. We found ourselves a local brewery and some nice restaurants. Gatlinburg is the more popular choice for lodging near the park, but after driving through the busy town, we were glad with the decision we made to stay at Grandpa's. 

A beautiful view, a comfy rocking chair and a cold beer ... it doesn't get much better!  Ryan said the cabin was his favorite part of the vacation. 

A beautiful view, a comfy rocking chair and a cold beer ... it doesn't get much better!  Ryan said the cabin was his favorite part of the vacation. 

The cabin was situated on its own little drive which gave us complete privacy. 

The cabin was situated on its own little drive which gave us complete privacy. 

Here's the view we enjoyed during our stay. Because of it, we hardly spent any time inside the cabin! 

Here's the view we enjoyed during our stay. Because of it, we hardly spent any time inside the cabin! 

A lovely sunset we watched from the hot tub. 

A lovely sunset we watched from the hot tub. 

Bryson City is located near the Nantahala River, a hot spot for water activities. We stopped in this area for a quick bathroom break and this lovely photo. 

Bryson City is located near the Nantahala River, a hot spot for water activities. We stopped in this area for a quick bathroom break and this lovely photo. 

The Nantahala Brewing Company had a wide array of beers. They really hit the spot after a day in the park! We even took a couple six-packs home with us. 

The Nantahala Brewing Company had a wide array of beers. They really hit the spot after a day in the park! We even took a couple six-packs home with us. 

Other stops

On our drive to the park, we stopped overnight in Nashville. We did this not only because it broke up the drive but also because we really enjoy the city. A quick stop in the Gulch area for dinner and beers at the Yazoo Brewery followed by a brief Broadway visit. The next morning we ate breakfast at Biscuit Love. I ended up having hot Nashville chicken on my biscuit. Even though it was before 10 AM, I couldn't resist the fried chicken! 

Happy-Happenings-Blog-Photo-Travel-Smoky-Mountains

On our drive to Bryson City, we passed through Chattanooga. Ryan suggested I research if there was anything to take in while we pass through. What we found was the oldest and largest of America's Civil War parks, Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park. The park commemorates the 1863 battles for Chattanooga that marked a major turning point in the war. The Union and Confederate forces fought for control of Chattanooga, known as the "Gateway to the Deep South."

The Confederates were victorious at nearby Chickamauga in September. However, renewed fighting in Chattanooga that November provided Union troops victory and control of the city. When the fighting had ended, there were more than 16,000 Union and 18,000 Confederate casualties, making Chickamauga the second bloodiest battle of the war (after Gettysburg). In 1890, the park was established to preserve and commemorate these battlefields.

This looks like a normal forest but it was a place of battle, death. It was an eerie feeling to be standing here. 

This looks like a normal forest but it was a place of battle, death. It was an eerie feeling to be standing here. 

Ryan is fascinated by Civil War history, so this was definitely a bucket list item for him! 

Ryan is fascinated by Civil War history, so this was definitely a bucket list item for him! 

There are 705 commemorative features including monuments, markers, and tablets, spread across the Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park.

There are 705 commemorative features including monuments, markers, and tablets, spread across the Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park.

Here are cannonballs embedded in two tree trunks. 

Here are cannonballs embedded in two tree trunks. 

Our last stop, after the Smoky Mountains, was Cincinnati to see our friends Ryan and Kristin and Matt and Trina. Ryan has lived there for almost 15 years and Matt just moved this spring. When we decided to take this trip, Ryan knew a visit to his friends would be icing on the cake. And it was! The weekend went by quickly, but we were able to have a lot of fun together. On Friday night we went to a Red's game, complete with fireworks. Then Saturday, the guys golfed while the girls, along with Matt and Trina's son August, went to the Cincinnati Zoo. It was very nice zoo and a lot of fun. We wrapped up the evening with a Cincinnati staple – Skyline chili coneys and 3-ways (spaghetti topped with chili and cheese). Thanks to Ryan and Kristin for the great hospitality! We wish we could see you more often! 

Great American Ball Park; Matt works for Great American. 

Great American Ball Park; Matt works for Great American. 

I finally got to see a black bear on the trip! ;) 

I finally got to see a black bear on the trip! ;) 

Our trip to the Great Smokey Mountains National Park, Nashville and Cincinnati was one we soon won't forget. Credit goes to Ryan for driving us for the entire trip. Not always easy when you're in a mountain range! A big thanks to him for always supporting my thirst for adventure and love of nature!