Duluth
We recently took a little vacation to Duluth, Minnesota. Duluth? ... you may ask. We chose Duluth area because of all the outdoor beauty it offers. This northeast corner of Minnesota is an area of dramatic cliffs, rocky beaches, pine-covered hills and stunning views of Lake Superior. The city of Duluth was once a center for shipping, lumber, mining, steel, railroads, grain, and one of the nation's largest ports. During the 1880's, New York newspapers believed in 20 years it would be larger than Chicago. It was home to some of the country's wealthiest people of the time. However, several recessions hit the city hard, and by the 1970's, many of Duluth’s most important industries had closed, leaving the city with a declining economy and a bleak future. Luckily, the city was able to use its rich industrial past as an asset in the tourist industry.
The waterfront area, once a warehouse district filled with empty buildings was transformed into what is now known as Canal Park. Many of the city's hotels, restaurants, and shops are found here. Duluth now seems to strike a successful balance between industry and tourism. While the city's port is still active with shipments of grains, coal and taconite, it also boasts amenities that draw hordes of tourists in the summer and fall ... including us!
We ended up spending most of our time on the North Shore instead of Duluth. The North Shore Scenic Drive (State-61) runs 150 miles from Duluth to Grand Portage, at the Canadian border. The route follows the dramatic, rugged shoreline of the lake, with small towns, forested hillsides, streams and waterfalls along the way.
For the first two nights of our stay, we stayed in a log cabin along the North Shore. The cabin included a full kitchen, wood-burning fireplace and a glass-railing deck. It was a peaceful, relaxing spot. We watched gulls swoop and fly around us during the day, enjoyed a real fire inside the cabin at night and fell asleep to the soothing sound of the waves crashing below.
Besides relaxing at our cabin, we also took in some of the most popular spots in the area.
The Split Rock Light Station was put into service in 1910 to guide ships after a disastrous storm in 1905 sank or damaged 29 ships on western Lake Superior. The light station was active for nearly 60 years. Today, the Split Rock Lighthouse is a National Historic Landmark and a Minnesota state historic site.
Palisade Head is a rocky outcrop high above Lake Superior. Its view of the lake and Shovel Point are pretty spectacular. We didn't dare get close the edge! Both of these cliffs are popular rock-climbing spots.
We made a quick stop at Gooseberry Falls State Park to see the Upper, Middle and Lower Falls of the Gooseberry River. Before arriving, we both agreed that after Kauai, small waterfalls aren't nearly as impressive as they used to be to us. However, I was pleasantly surprised by these pretty falls. It is a bit funny how something so simple as water flowing down from a high place can be so alluring. The sound and view really never can disappoint, no matter how small.
We took a tour of Glensheen, the 39-room mansion situated on the historic Congdon estate in Duluth. The mansion was built between 1905 and 1908 for Chester and Clara Congdon. It contains rare, intact collection of original furnishings and art. Because of this, it closely resembles the days when one of Minnesota's most wealthy and influential families lived there. The Congdon estate also includes more than 12-acres of formal gardens, vegetable gardens, trails and a boathouse with pier. In 1969, the estate was willed to the University of Minnesota Duluth. It is operated today as a historic house museum by the university.
We also got out and did some outdoorsy activities.
Biking. After a little researching, we found the paved Gitchi Gami Trail to ride. We started at the town of Beaver Bay and rode down to Gooseberry Falls and back, a total of 26 miles. The trail is currently made up of five unconnected segments but there are plans for it to extend 88 continuous miles, from Two Harbors to Grand Marais.
The trail had some steep hills and curves. The uphill climbs weren't so much fun; I found myself in the lowest gear, inching my way up (as slow as 4 m.p.h). However, the downhills were fast and exciting. Ryan said it best when he said it was a bit like a roller coaster! We stopped a couple times, skipping stones at a cobblestone beach and having a "picnic" of beef jerky and water.
Hiking. I have had the itch to hike since Hawaii so I was looking forward to this part of the trip. It is a great way to get exercise and take in some great views. We decided on the Split Rock Loop Trail. The 5-mile hike, designed as a loop, runs along the cliffs of the Split Rock River. The trail went past the river's estuary, gorges, cascades and rapids.
From time to time, we stopped to take in the views and the sounds of rushing water. We had a snack at one particular stop. In addition to all the beauty around us, there were also butterflies floating around us. I loved that peaceful little moment with Ryan.
Although the trail was designed to be a loop, the bridge across the river was out so we were forced to come back the way we came. That was okay, though, since we like to "power hike" on the return route. We didn't take any detours for photos or breaks and made it back 40 minutes faster.
We ate and drank quite a bit, too.
Most restaurants were bar and grill type of establishments with burgers, sandwiches and fries. We did try to enjoy some of the local treats, including elk, smoked salmon, walleye and wild rice. Did you know that there's a difference between the wild rice we buy in the grocery store and what is harvested in Minnesota? We kept seeing wild rice for sale signs and wondered what that was all about. Turns out, Minnesota wild rice isn't even rice at all. It’s actually an aquatic cereal grain that grows "wild" in isolated lakes and river bend areas. Since it is wild, it is rare. The rice is also hand-harvested, which makes it more expensive. The rice has a smoky, nutty and earthy taste. We didn't buy any but now thinking maybe we should have.
The night we stayed in the Canal area we thought we'd check out a few of the drinking establishments. We first went to the Canal Park Brewing Company. We sat in the patio area and waited for a server. And waited. Eventually, we gave up and left for a local favorite, Grandma's (ever heard of Grandma's Marathon? ... the race is named after the restaurant since it was the only local sponsor of the first race in 1977). The place had a very retro vibe (think Hickory Park in Ames) and had an old-school, Cheers-like bar. We had planned to go to the patio but ended up talking to the 60-year-old gentleman next to Ryan. Surprisingly, we ended up having a lot in common with this traveling business man named Ken. We talked running (he's run two marathons), fishing, work and family (he has a daughter named Jamie). He ended up paying for our food and drinks, which was unexpected and unnecessary but totally appreciated. Sometimes I think plans don't go according to plan for a reason. We ended up with a far better experience than if we had stayed at the brewery or gone upstairs to the patio. We had a great conversation with a complete stranger and made a memory that will last much longer than our encounter.
Duluth area offered us a true escape from everyday life. It gave us the opportunity to enjoy nature and spend quality time together, as a couple. If this is what you're looking for, then look no further than Duluth!